How to Grow and Care For Neoregelia Bromeliad

Neoregelia Bromeliad Care

If you grow air plants, orchids, or other types of bromeliads, caring for neoregelia is much the same. Given the right growing conditions, these epiphytes are easy to maintain.

Unlike orchids and other bromeliads where the flower is the most attractive feature, neoregelia foliage provides year-round interest.

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Light

Neoregelias grow best with indirect light. Two to six hours of bright but indirect exposure daily is sufficient and plants benefit from afternoon shade.

Many varieties do well with less light than others in the bromeliaceae family with some adapted to nearly full shade. Leaf patterns and colors can be altered with incorrect exposure to light.

Soil

Plant neoregelias in a loose, airy, soilless mix that drains well. A combination of bark, sphagnum moss, and perlite, such as found in an orchid potting mix, is ideal.

Some specialty garden retailers also carry potting mixes formulated specifically for bromeliads. These plants prefer a pH lightly on the acidic side.

Water

Keep about one-quarter of the center cup of your bromeliad filled with water. Rainwater or distilled water works best. Allow the potting medium to dry completely before watering a neoregelia.

These plants are adapted to dry conditions and are somewhat drought-tolerant. Allow all excess water to drain. Overwatering causes root rot which is difficult to reverse.

Temperature and Humidity

Humidity is the greatest factor for keeping a neoregelia healthy. Plants tolerate temperatures from 50°F to 90°F, but they need 65 to 80 percent humidity which is difficult to maintain in an average household.

Keep air moisture elevated by misting your bromeliad daily or consider adding a small humidifier. Water in the center cup helps elevate moisture levels so don’t let it dry out, insufficient amounts cause brittle, distorted leaves.

Fertilizer

You may not need to fertilize your neoregelia at all, but young plants or ones that look to be struggling can benefit from an infusion of all-purpose orchid food.

Avoid getting fertilizer into the center cup which can burn the leaves. Water your plant well before adding fertilizer at half strength and fertilize only once or twice a year in spring or summer.

Types of Neoregelia Bromeliad

Neoregelia is a genus of bromeliad with about 100 species and cultivars. Here are a few favorites to consider growing yourself.

• Neoregelia spectabilis: Green leaves are tipped in red and display narrow, gray stripes underneath. Center rosette leaves are edged in purple with blue flowers.
• Neoregelia carolinæ: Outer leaves are green with a red blush at the base. The inner rosette turns red when plants begin to bloom with flowers in violet to lavender hues.
• Neoregelia ‘Guinea’: A smaller cultivar at just 6 to 8 inches, ‘Guinea’ features green leaves speckled in maroon and tipped in red.
• Neoregelia meyendorffii ‘Spineless’: Leaves are olive green on top and brown striped beneath. The center rosette is a deep burgundy color with flowers that may be white or blue.
• Neoregelia ‘Morado’: Wide leaves are variegated with dark green centers and white margins. The center rosette is purple. ‘Morado’ is particularly well adapted to low light and develops dark concentric bands with greater sun exposure.

Propagating Neoregelia Bromeliad

Bromeliads are short-lived plants that flower just once in a life cycle. They bloom for an extended period of time, up to three months, after which they start to produce pups as the original plant dies back. Pups (offshoots) are miniature versions of the original plant and can be removed and replanted in individual pots.

1. Look for offshoots around the base of the original plant instead of those that form higher up. Offshoots that have contact with a potting medium are more likely to have their own roots.
2. Allow offshoots to develop to one-third to one-half the size of the original plant before removing them. The bigger the offshoot, the greater the chance of it surviving removal and replanting.
3. You may be able to work the offshoot free by gently pulling and twisting or you may need a sharp knife. Don’t worry about damaging the original plant which is going to die back anyway.
4. Pot up the offshoot in a small, (3- to 4-inch) container filled with orchid mix or a similar soilless, loose, well-draining medium. Only the roots should sit below the potting mix. Water well and place the pot in a warm place to receive indirect light.
5. Offshoots without roots can be rooted by following the steps above. They tend to be top-heavy so you may need to support them with small stakes. Planting too deep causes offshoots to rot. Roots develop in about four weeks.

Repotting Neoregelia Bromeliad

When your neoregelia begins to look crowded in its pot, you’ll want to give it a larger one. Repot in spring or summer when the plant is actively growing.

Choose a pot just 1 to 2 inches larger and fill it with bromeliad, orchid, or another loose, well-draining medium. Choose a pot with drainage holes. Terracotta and ceramic pots are good choices because they allow water to evaporate.

Turn the pot with your neoregelia on its side and gently pull out the bromeliad. Remove excess medium and inspect the roots. Damaged roots can be cut back to a healthy portion or removed at the point where they join the center stem.

Place the neoregelia in its new pot with the base of the central stem sitting slightly above soil level. Fill in around the roots with potting medium. Water to settle the mix and add more if needed.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Aphids, scale, thrips, and mealybugs are common pests of houseplants that can affect neoregelia. Signs you may have a problem include yellowing, wilting, or damaged foliage and cottony webbing around the base and on the undersides of leaves.

If caught early, you may be able to eradicate pests by wiping the leaves gently with a soft cloth or a Q-tip dipped in alcohol. Infestations may need to be treated with neem oil or insecticidal soap.

Overwatering can cause bacterial leaf spot or root rot to develop. Keep just the center rosette partly filled with water and let the potting medium dry out completely before watering.

Allow all excess water to drain before returning the pot to its permanent location. Avoid leaving the pot to sit in water.

Common Problems With Neoregelia Bromeliad

Neoregelia bromeliads are easy to maintain and offer plenty of variety in size and color. They are also fun plants with some types changing colors as plants mature or are exposed to different levels of light. Common problems that do come up are usually the result of an error in care.

Crown Rot

If the center rosette starts to wilt or brown the plant is likely suffering from crown rot due to either too much or stagnant water in the cup. Keep neoregelia’s cup filled just one-quarter to one-third full and change the water frequently. If your water is heavily treated use distilled or rainwater.

Faded Color on Foliage

Neoregelia is light sensitive with some cultivars preferring nearly full shade. If leaf colors start to look faded or washed out, the plant is receiving too much light exposure. Move it to a location that gets indirect sun exposure for less time during the day.

Leaf Scorch

Bright direct sunlight causes neoregelia foliage to burn. Scorch marks such as dry or dark tips or margins are indications of leaf scorch. Move the plant to a location that receives only bright, indirect light.